Trip Report: The Colorado Trail Part 5 - The San Juans

September 16, 2021  •  Leave a Comment

The San Juans (Segments 22-28):

Photos: https://imgur.com/a/O4UXEe3

Leaving Lake City, I knew I was gonna make it. During the last stretch, every day was a constant debate of am I actually gonna seriously injure myself if I keep walking or am I good? But I felt good knowing we were on the home stretch and especially getting that first taste of the San Juans. I was walking out of the gear store and didn’t even have to put my thumb up before the Presbytarian church pastor stopped by and offered a ride. I climbed my way out of Spring Creek Pass. The first campsite I walked past was surrounded by creeking dead trees and I found one tiny little leaf with flowing water around algae pools. I cameled up and decided to keep moving. After breaking treeline, much of the terrain was sloped and windy. I found one little nook and decided to pitch up, overlooking many of the mountains we just finished walking through. That night, I’d catch the new moon and see some of the most fantastic stars I’d seen in my life yet and take one of the coolest pictures I’ve ever taken (375).

After waking up to shoot Astro in the middle of the night, I unfortunately did not get much more sleep. Winds were absolutely howling all night. It was restless. I was already at altitude and chilly too. I don’t know how people hike through this section in September. The morning was also not super fun to hike through. The wind literally just doesn’t give you a second to chill out or have a snack. You just wanna keep hiking and get off altitude. I passed the highpoint and saw a lot of ATVs. The second half of the day, clouds parted, some of the haze pushed off and got some incredible views passing Cataract Lake and setting up at our sweetest campsite yet at 12,763 feet (392.2).

The next morning, I unzipped my tent flap to one of the most stunning sunrises I have ever seen. The haze made for incredible layers. This was hands down my favorite section of the trail. I was looking forward to seeing Elk Creek Drainage ever since I started planning this trip but I had no idea all the trail leading up to it would be as equally stunning. I crested a butte and dropped my pack, the only hiker around for miles as I heard the coyotes howl around the valleys beneath me. This region was national park worthy. Utah like red rock formations standing in front of sharp spire mountains. Every turn would leave you confused as to how this exists. We finally dropped back into the trees for the first time in days (407.2).

One of my tramily member’s family was going to meet us at Molas Lake CG with pizza and beer so we knew it was going to be a slow day. The walk out was a piece of cake. We passed some beautiful lakes with views of Arrow and Vestal peak. I was really hoping to catch the Silverton-Durango train that the trail intersects the tracks of. Unfortunately, I got there a little bit late. I kept walking another 0.1 miles and while I was filtering water I heard the horn in the valley. I dropped everything and sprinted back just in time to get the photo I wanted. The campground was booked out when we got there, but with a little bit of trail magic, the manager gave me a spot for free that had been left already. Also got free S’mores materials, free fuel and some free meals from the hiker box. My lucky day. Enjoyed a great fire, pizza and beer at the gorgeous campsite (417.2).

Spirits were high leaving the campground. I devoured three microwave burritos and leftover pizza for dinner. Hiker hunger was in full bloom. Climbed over Molas Pass and back up into the mountains. Very few climbs left and we were obligated to finish on the 15th with family visiting so we decided to cruise out the rest of the trail (428.4).

I had expected the views to die down after Molas Lake but continued to have great days. Went over another very moderate pass. Passed a lovely sign paying tribute to Gudy Gaskill (441.1).

Climbed the gentle ride up to Blackhawk pass. Starting to kick in that this little adventure of mine was going to be over soon. Picked almost an entire ziplock bag’s worth of wild strawberries to throw into a little Nutella desert wrap and oatmeal for breakfast. Got another excellent campsite with jaw dropping sunset/sunrise views (452.7).

Hiking the next ridgeline in the morning was an absolute pleasure. Expansive views on soft trail under tree cover. The big water carry was coming and by the afternoon the weather had turned. Pitched my tarp only and the four of us huddled underneath waiting out the thunderstorm before pushing on to the next epic campsite (466.0).

In proper CT fashion, our last full trail day would see us hike another jaw dropping ridgeline in the morning sun and then drop down past Taylor Lake for the final descent into the woods. Felt like an incredibly strong hiker blazing past dayhikers at the lower elevations. Another hail storm would hit and we utilized the X-Mids handy tarp only pitch again for cover to wait it out. I guess we had run our luck out on bomb campsites because tonights was one of the worst. I pitched almost directly over the remnants of a cow patty entrapping the smell for me (483.0).

Woke up early and ready to get out the nasty campsite. Cruised out the last ~10 miles while I thought about this incredible journey of mine. My family was eagerly awaiting me at the finish line and unfortunately had to hug my very stinky self. Also ran into Gudy Gaskill's daughter at the terminus! What are the odds? Devoured more pizza and then began the journey home (492.9).


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